How to Use Tretinoin (and What I Wish I'd Known First)

I don’t usually fall down every beauty rabbit hole that finds me on TikTok, but the tretinoin praise was hard to ignore. As a longtime retinol user, I eventually gave in and decided to see what all the fuss was about. So I tried tretinoin, learned a few things the hard way, and decided to share what I wish I’d known before I started.

Tretinoin is part of the retinoid family, which also includes retinol and retinal. What sets it apart is its potency. Retinoids ultimately work by converting into retinoic acid, the form that can act directly on the skin. Retinol has to go through two conversion steps to get there. Tretinoin, on the other hand, is already an active form of retinoic acid, so it skips the conversion process entirely. That direct route is a big part of what makes it so effective, and also why you need to be a little more careful with it.

Tretinoin works by speeding up skin cell turnover, making it a go-to for anyone dealing with acne, pigmentation, fine lines, and wrinkles. I started using it for the occasional breakouts that tend to appear with hormonal fluctuations, with the added hope that it would help fade my marks and give my skin a brighter, more even appearance. Now for the part where I admit I did exactly what you’re not supposed to do. I ignored the advice to start slowly and used more tretinoin than I should have. My skin was already used to retinol, so I thought tretinoin would be an easy next step. It wasn’t. The skin around my lips became painfully dry and red, and once my skin was irritated, even moisturizer made some areas feel uncomfortable. At one point, I was slathering barrier cream all over my face at work when a Wonderflaw colleague pointed out that this seemed to happen to me every month. Fair enough. Still, I kept going, convinced my skin would eventually get used to tretinoin. It took me a while to realize that I was simply overdoing it.

How to Use Tretinoin

With tretinoin, taking it slow is everything. Don’t be impatient like I was. Start by cleansing your face at night and letting your skin dry completely. This is not the moment to rush. Applying tretinoin to damp skin can make irritation more likely, so give your face a few minutes before applying a pea-sized amount. And when I say pea-sized, I mean pea-sized. Don’t assume that using more will get you better results. With tretinoin, overdoing it can leave you with redness, sensitivity, dryness, and flaking.

When you’re new to tretinoin, start with no more than three nights a week. Your skin needs time to adjust, and going too hard too soon can compromise the skin barrier and make your skin even more reactive. Tretinoin can also leave your skin more sensitive to sunlight, so save it for nighttime.

Once your tretinoin is on, wait a few minutes and follow with a moisturizer that works well for you. If your skin is on the touchy side, look for something soothing and barrier-supporting. You can also try the sandwich method if your skin needs a little extra cushioning. Apply moisturizer before tretinoin, then another layer afterward. The extra layer acts as a buffer and makes tretinoin easier to tolerate.

One more thing about sunscreen. Tretinoin speeds up the skin’s renewal process, which also means you need to be extra careful about sun exposure. SPF in the morning is essential, but it shouldn’t be a one-and-done situation. Reapply every two to three hours, especially when you’re spending time outdoors. This is the part I really take seriously now.

The Ingredients to Skip When Using Tretinoin

Tretinoin is already a serious active, so there’s usually no need to pile on other strong actives. That includes AHAs and BHAs. It’s generally better to keep exfoliating acids out of the same routine as tretinoin.

If you’re using a tretinoin product available at pharmacies in Turkey, consult a dermatologist before getting started. Your dermatologist can also advise you on the rest of your routine.